Pulling the 302

[nfpgasmask]

OK, this weekend my wife is outta town and will have 2 straight days of garage time. Tommorrow morning my broski is coming over to help me get the glass removed. Next will be the dash and steering column, and I should have enough time to yank the motor. I'm picking up an engine hoist and stand after work today. I've never pulled a motor before, so can anyone offer any tips and/or answer my question below?

1) I know I need to disconnect the trans, what else should I pull off the motor before I yank it?

2) I believe my motor already has lift points, so I need chains attached to all of these spots, and then I just slowly lift it out, correct?

3) Once it's out, I should be able to bolt it to the engine stand via some bolt holes on the back, correct?

Once this is done I will schedule time with a blaster and get here down to bare metal. Then the fun begins!

Thanks - Bart

[roadwarriormfp]

Don't forget to release the nuts holding the tourque converter to the flex plate!
(Yes i have done that once before)

Remove starter motor , radiator and fan to allow a bit more room at the front in case the engine swings forward.
There really isnt much else left, apart from exhaust manifolds and the earth strap.

Its always easyier to actually lift the engine clear of the engine bay and then push the car back out of the way.

[nfpgasmask]

Excellent, thanks for those tips!!

Also, where is the radiator drain plug?

Bart

[roadwarriormfp]

The bottom radiator hose will do!....
A radiator drain plug was never fitted in those days.
The block does have drain plugs (very small ones) underneath but best to drain it once its clear as they not real easy to get to

[Mad Maxwell]

Bart,

Read this:

http://toolmonger.com/2006/04/19/pullin ... ift-chain/

Check out the link at the bottom of the page too. A load leveler will save a ton of headaches trying to balance the engine and rotate it out of the compartment.

They sell them at your local Harbor Freight store too. (3800 KIETZKE LN, STE 150 Reno)

As far as transferring the engine to a stand, I didn't have the correct bolts the first time I did it so I had to make a run to the store with the engine still hanging from the lift. No big deal, just be aware this will probably be the case. When you pull the engine, bolt the carrier for the stand to the engine while it's still hanging from the lift, then pick up the stand and slide it onto the carrier so that the whole assembly is hanging from the lift. Then, slowly lower the whole thing to the floor. This keeps you from having to wrestle with the engine getting everything lined up.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks guys, Today I got ALL the glass removed, and the dash completely out. Man, I really wonder how the heck I am going to get all that back together when the time comes.

The glass was a piece of cake, the dash was a straight up bitch. Some updates here:

http://thisblightedplace.blogspot.com/

Now, back to the motor, I actually don't see any lift points, so should I have a lift plate made to attach with the carb removed?

Bart

[MrSpeed]

These guys will be able to help you

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part ... yword=lift

[dusty hills]

Thought it may have been easier to hoist the motor out with the box, as fitting motor to box in car can be a bitch.

I have removed a dash before and they are a pain but reversal is sometimes easier, just keep all the bolts together.

engine hoist brackets appear on ebay from time to time.

good luck

[Daz]

Thought it may have been easier to hoist the motor out with the box, as fitting motor to box in car can be a bitch.

I have removed a dash before and they are a pain but reversal is sometimes easier, just keep all the bolts together.

engine hoist brackets appear on ebay from time to time.

good luck

remove the hood, and take the engine and box out as a single unit.
takes a bit of pushing and swearing, but it's the way it's done.

[Bozz]

A pulling plate would be the preferred way to go, no doubt.

However, I have seen it done with two 3 foot lengths of chain anchored into the front 2 intake manifold bolts and the rear most.

Angle changes were achieved by shortening either loop with bolts between links (to effectively remove a link or 3).

I'm not saying I endorse this approach, I'm only saying that I have seen it done this way and it worked with no damage incurred.

(crazy West Virginia cousins and their hillbilly engineering)

If it's a manual tranny, I agree that you should pull it out with the motor. Auto's are much bigger and heavier and depending on your specific circumstances may be too big a bear to pull attached.

Best of luck!