Long range tanks

Like the name says...
Bronze21
Posts: 1853
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 11:25 am

Long range tanks

Post by Bronze21 »



So Gordon, did you fit the main fuel tank up from the bottom, possibly with nuts through the flang, so it's removable later on, or did you put it in through the top, which would permanently lock it into position if the tanks are metal and welded to the backlight crossmember? Also, do you usually use the "long-range" fuel cell, or just whatever came with the car?


The way I've thought about it, was if one was using metal tanks, was to bolt the main tank up from the bottom, weld angle-iron brackets on either end which bolt in, then take the strap over both tanks, cut a hole in the pan, and bolt the ends of the strap to the frame. The center tie-down post would be bolted then welded to a 1/4"x2" strap connecting both tanks. They could be functional if a hole was drilled in each tank, with lines running into the main tank. Gauging would be a different matter.
Gordon Hayes
Posts: 570
Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2000 6:09 pm

Long range tanks

Post by Gordon Hayes »



Hi.Bronze 21





The tanks are full time in situ, never to come out.


I actually glassed them into position.


They went in is 6 sections.


They do carry fuel lines fitted with fuel filters down into the chassis but naturally they are fake.





Given the actual weight of a full with fuel steel tank if fitted, I think that they would need to be chocked and welded into position.


The mounting would need to be amazing solid.


Any single touch point would twist off with the weight, so yea wedging of some type would be required to stop the tanks rolling.


And I assume internal foam or baffles.





As the car is heading to a museum we left the stock tank in position and functioning.





Cheers


Gordon
Cheers


From OZ


Gordon
Locked