1/18
Re: 1/18
Everything turned out just like your excellent master copy, with the exception of the odd little bubble here and there... and I'll fix that. I was worried that there would be some dimensional distortion, but it didn't happen. It was as if you designed it to be molded.Bronze21 wrote:Scary is right! I thought he simply painted my buck! I'm really curious to see how well it translated in person, because the pics are looking good. How did the scoops and the undercuts come out?
I'm going to have to keep track of my mix ratios so I can duplicate the colors precisely.
Last edited by draknoir2 on Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Two days ago, I saw a vehicle that would haul that tanker. You want to get out of here? You talk to me."
Re: 1/18
Thanks, but all I did was repro Bronze's awesome nosepiece. I am happy with the colored plastic - looks very vitamin C.Madmaxing wrote:With the excellent color match and the quality of the appearance that thing is just plain scarey!!!! Great job!!
Steve
"Two days ago, I saw a vehicle that would haul that tanker. You want to get out of here? You talk to me."
Re: 1/18
Vitamin C...at least it's a Chrysler name, instead of something blasphemous from Holden...on a Tango Ford. Haha...
I actually expected to see a two-part mold going along the outside edge of the front and back. Do you have issues with bubbles on the undercuts as you pour it, or do you go in with a stir stick and work the bubbles out manually, or do you have an autoclave?
A few years ago, I made 1:24 scale Instrument Panel conversion parts for the Pro Modellers series Torino GT model. It was an L-shaped mold that I poured resin into then squeezed a tape-wrapped piece of wood into, to create the top crashpad below the windscreen. After the initial pouring, I went in with a sharpened tounge depressor and got the bubbles out that would be trapped in the buttons, vents and anywhere there was a small cavity or undercut. I made these about five years ago...just before the Aoshima kit came out the first time. The buck for this little 55mm wide piece was made out of 42 parts...consisting of Dodge Ram pickup vents and key, Plymouth GTX radio, 69 Shelby gauges and a/c controls, Torino GT gauges, and the rest was scratch-built. The pic shows a "C" quality part at the end of the mold life. Notice the bubble voids? The one in between the twin round gauges is intentional, because it's the high-beam light indicator. Unfortunately, it's about 5mm too short to fit into the Aoshima kit without sectioning the glovebox area. The funny thing is, I had over 50 of those parts go to six different countries by the time it was all over.
I actually expected to see a two-part mold going along the outside edge of the front and back. Do you have issues with bubbles on the undercuts as you pour it, or do you go in with a stir stick and work the bubbles out manually, or do you have an autoclave?
A few years ago, I made 1:24 scale Instrument Panel conversion parts for the Pro Modellers series Torino GT model. It was an L-shaped mold that I poured resin into then squeezed a tape-wrapped piece of wood into, to create the top crashpad below the windscreen. After the initial pouring, I went in with a sharpened tounge depressor and got the bubbles out that would be trapped in the buttons, vents and anywhere there was a small cavity or undercut. I made these about five years ago...just before the Aoshima kit came out the first time. The buck for this little 55mm wide piece was made out of 42 parts...consisting of Dodge Ram pickup vents and key, Plymouth GTX radio, 69 Shelby gauges and a/c controls, Torino GT gauges, and the rest was scratch-built. The pic shows a "C" quality part at the end of the mold life. Notice the bubble voids? The one in between the twin round gauges is intentional, because it's the high-beam light indicator. Unfortunately, it's about 5mm too short to fit into the Aoshima kit without sectioning the glovebox area. The funny thing is, I had over 50 of those parts go to six different countries by the time it was all over.
Re: 1/18
The resin doesn't have a long enough pot life for me to do anything other than pour it, but even so, there were surprisingly few bubbles, considering the depth of the undercuts. When I get some slower plastic I'll de-air the mold in a vacuum chamber.
Here's the mess that is my workbench [it was clean when I started]. The metal casting station is in the foreground and the vacuum chamber is behind it.
Your model lent itself to one-piece molding [you can see the pink mold in the background]. I just have to spread it apart when I pour to make sure it flows into the thin sections. I masked off the inside of the scoops with tape when I made the mold, so that I can de-mold the part, and only have to cut out three paper-thin membranes with an exacto.
Your dash looks good [sorry... IP]. Have you made any other parts besides the nose in 1/18?
Here's the mess that is my workbench [it was clean when I started]. The metal casting station is in the foreground and the vacuum chamber is behind it.
Your model lent itself to one-piece molding [you can see the pink mold in the background]. I just have to spread it apart when I pour to make sure it flows into the thin sections. I masked off the inside of the scoops with tape when I made the mold, so that I can de-mold the part, and only have to cut out three paper-thin membranes with an exacto.
Your dash looks good [sorry... IP]. Have you made any other parts besides the nose in 1/18?
Last edited by draknoir2 on Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Two days ago, I saw a vehicle that would haul that tanker. You want to get out of here? You talk to me."
Re: 1/18
DRAKOIR! Where in Hades did you get the OGRE MK IV???!!! I never knew they made a kit of it. A buddy and I played that game constantly back in the mid 80's. Good ol' Steve Jackson games...Ogre, Car Wars.
As far as 1:18 stuff...No.
I had thought about adding two more layers in the lower front fascia plate to make it thicker for casting, but it looks good the way it is.
As far as 1:18 stuff...No.
I had thought about adding two more layers in the lower front fascia plate to make it thicker for casting, but it looks good the way it is.
Re: 1/18
That is actually a restoration I did for a guy... he had a destroyed lead 1979 Martian Metals MKV that held great sentimental value to him, so I talked him into trusting me with the wreckage, and I gave it the works. I mean, nails were hammered into it for guns, most of the detail was scraped off, tower was missing, paint and putty were several layers thick, and the whole model, being a hand carved master back then, was severely asymmetrical.Bronze21 wrote:DRAKOIR! Where in Hades did you get the OGRE MK IV???!!! I never knew they made a kit of it. A buddy and I played that game constantly back in the mid 80's. Good ol' Steve Jackson games...Ogre, Car Wars.
Here are the before and after pics:
I've been playing the game since the '70s.
"Two days ago, I saw a vehicle that would haul that tanker. You want to get out of here? You talk to me."
